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Post by Zack Bilous on Mar 13, 2014 16:28:42 GMT -4
Good afternoon, this is my first post on this thread as I am new to mower racing and beginning my first build. My name is Zack and I live in Kingston. My intentions are to compete in the pro modified class once I have completed the build. The mower I am using is a 70's roper. I have read the rules and I know that the front axle has to remain in the factory oem position, but custom front fabricated axles are recommended. The roper factory oem location is underneath the u frame channel, about 4 inches back from the front, just under the front of the engine, likely there for more support. I am going to replace the factory axle with one from www.eccarburetors.com and brace the frame with 1x1 square tubing for added strength. Here is my question: 1) Do I have to install the new axle in the exact location, under the u frame channel, or; 2) Can I discretly remove the 4 inches of the front frame channel, in order to move the axle from underneath, to the front of the frame. Than I would weld two 4 inch pieces of metal to the front, so the hood will remain in the factory oem position. This will allow me to lower the mower and at the same time make the frame stronger as the axle will tie into the added 1x1 square tubing. Thanks for the help/advice in advance. ZACK.
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Post by Thunder on Mar 13, 2014 18:22:55 GMT -4
We have a wheelbase length rule in place which is 48inches from center to center of axles if your roper frame is not too long you would be allowed to move it ahead as long as it stays to the length rule. If you have any other questions feel free to ask as we want your build to go smoothly. See you at the races.
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Post by Zack Bilous on Mar 13, 2014 18:41:07 GMT -4
I appreciate the quick response Thunder. Thanks for the advice.
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zack
New Member
Posts: 3
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Post by zack on Mar 13, 2014 20:34:10 GMT -4
I got the 70's Roper for next to nothing and I like how the front end looks. Once I weld the 1x1 square tubing to strengthen the frame, I realize that it will be heavier than the average because of the U tunnel frame. But overall I think I will be able to trim a lot of weight and make up for the added u frame by running 6 inch alum rims on all 4 corners along with a ragb. That should make up for the added weight.
I've been gluded to heymow.com ever since I decided to start building my mower, researching different options and parts because I am new and some of the rules can be interpreted differently.
Now that Thunder got the gears working in my head, I have a follow up question to my original one regarding the moving of my axle. I want to be 100% sure that if I keep my axle in the original oem location but discretly remove 4 inches from the front of the U channel frame so that the axle will now be in the front, all while welding 4 inch tabs to the front so that the orginal oem location of the hood stays.
I don't want to be breaking this rule:
1) Chassis: - frame parts must retain original manufacturers (OEM) specifications (no chopping).
The "no chopping" part I am unsure of. The axle will remain in the original oem location and I will be welding replacement tabs so the hood will remain in the original location,the frame will be it's original length and the axle will remain in the original oem location, but in order to do that I will have to discretly "chop"/ remove approximately 4 inches of the u channel frame.
Is what I am planning on doing legal still? Thanks again for the help.
ZACK
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Post by happyhab on Mar 13, 2014 21:05:32 GMT -4
Zack, that is a good question. On my son's build, we used a Murray Wide Body chassis because it's frame is made up of two straigh rails. The OEM location of the front axle axle is right at the end of the rails so to lower the chassis all we did was weld in a solid beam drop axle. We didn't have to CHOP anything. We are running a live axle at the back, so I just made sure not to exceed 48" in length. However, I know the type of frame you have and to get the same ride height, I see what you mean, you have to chop the front part of the frame off and then weld in the axle in order lower the front end. Thunder, our club President, will advise you if that's allowed. The only other solution would be to run a heck of a drop axle. I have an old chassis here with a Ryker drop axle so I modelled mine around it using 1-1/2" Schd 10 pipe.
As for rim/wheel diameter, I can't recall anyone running six inch rims all the way around in ProMod, but I don't get out to all the races. I see you can do that in Supermod class, but I don't know if it carries through to ProMod or not. You can build to the Supermod frame rules, but I don't know if that includes rim diameter or not.
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Post by happyhab on Mar 13, 2014 21:17:15 GMT -4
So what motor are you going to run?
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Post by Zack Bilous on Mar 13, 2014 21:48:11 GMT -4
Rims don't include drive train. So you are correct that I will have to use an 8 inch rim in the rear as per pro modified rules. As for the engine I haven't even thought to much into it. I no that I will have to replace the one that I have because it is not fast enough for the class and my mower will be heavier than most so I no I will have to save my pennies in order to be able to keep up.
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Post by Thunder on Mar 14, 2014 17:31:29 GMT -4
Now that Thunder got the gears working in my head, I have a follow up question to my original one regarding the moving of my axle. I want to be 100% sure that if I keep my axle in the original oem location but discretly remove 4 inches from the front of the U channel frame so that the axle will now be in the front, all while welding 4 inch tabs to the front so that the orginal oem location of the hood stays.
Hi Zack as long as you do not exceed the wheelbase length of 48 inches you will be fine. If you look at the super mod frame build rules you will see discreet chopping is allowed for axles . So you will be legal in what you want to do.
I don't want to be breaking this rule:
1) Chassis: - frame parts must retain original manufacturers (OEM) specifications (no chopping).
The "no chopping" part I am unsure of. The axle will remain in the original oem location and I will be welding replacement tabs so the hood will remain in the original location,the frame will be it's original length and the axle will remain in the original oem location, but in order to do that I will have to discretly "chop"/ remove approximately 4 inches of the u channel frame.
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